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Rusty Autotanner

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by Mr.T, Oct 4, 2007.

  1. Mr.T

    Mr.T Active Member

    I have hit the archive, and read about Rinoliner being used inside the tank of a rusty Autotanner, has anyone re coated the inside of their tank in the past, and how is the longevity, and what kind of bandaide did you use to cover the inside of the tank?
    My capes are turning colors with all the exposed metal inside my tank. It's time for rework.
     
  2. BigBull

    BigBull New Member

    Hey T, I spoke to the guys at our local LineX bed liner company and to the Kelly-Moore paint store and both told me that the liner would work if not for adding the air pressure.....lol :-\ So it don't work then. They just staired to. The paint guy did say that a 2 part roll on apoxie would probably do the best but I did'nt ask which one. Sorry for the little to no help. Good Luck Bro.
     

  3. RK

    RK New Member

    I am having the same problem, I took mine to a powdercoater thinking they could help me, they didn't think they could ever get the old coating blasted out of the tank, so am thinking about biting the bullet and getting a stainless one.
     
  4. HOLMES

    HOLMES Active Member


    what color are they turning? Maybe your on to something new like the moss covered antler plaque.
     
  5. I have an Auto tanner too and have some rust. If I remember right, there was a post in the archives about using something called Smooth On, or maybe that was the company name. I thought it was a two part mix that was painted on the tank. Maybe that's not even the name, but it seems to stick in my head.

    Bruce Norton
     
  6. The bed liners are a poor choice.

    Here is what I did, removed the bedline that is on the tank, yep thats right its a bedliner material.

    Sand blasted to remove all rust, then painted with POR-15 from Eastwoods. It must be POR-15 other wise you are wasting your time and money.

    I did sand between coats of POR-15.

    Once dry I lightly sanded with 400 wet or dry wet sanding the tank and parts.

    Then painted with Valspar paint for Farm Impliments, from Tractor Supply Company, I also USED THE HARDENER.

    Paint cost from TSC was under $50.00.

    The POR-15 is the pricey item but I know it works!!!

    I did this about 18 months ago and have not had anymore rust problems. I do run Krowtann in the Auto Tanner as directed in the Krowtann instructions.
     
  7. RK

    RK New Member

    How did you get the old liner out? The edges on mine have come loose, but I can't get anymore off.
     
  8. Scraping and hard work.
     
  9. Steve Rotramel

    Steve Rotramel We got some radical rebels in this county!

    The original liners in the automatic tanners was plastic, but only in the first several hundred. Most have the epoxy paint which was applied by hand with a trim roller - three coats.

    If we had an older tank to refurbish, we would run it through the kiln, burning out the old paint. That left them very easy to blast.

    I imagine you could accomplish the same by throwing it on a bonfire, and then having it blasted. It would cost me about 20 bucks at the local powdercoating shop. (The sandblasting that is.) I would then use a top of the line immersion epoxy, three very thin coats. I stress thin because of the shrinkage. A thick coat has a lot more stress and will be more likely to delaminate.

    Be sure to check for excessive corrosion. Those tanks are well built, but excessive corrosion would require that you replace it. No patching allowed!
     
  10. RK

    RK New Member

    Thanks Steve, I had been kicking around the idea of trying to burn it off, guess I will try that, mine seems to have a fairly thick coating in it, especially on the inside where the door goes, it might be one of those with the plastic as I have had it a long time. Any particular brand of epoxy?
     
  11. Randy Mac

    Randy Mac New Member

    75
    0
    call you local Sherwin-Williams paint store and get a two part paint ask for B58W-610 and B58V-600
    have your tank sand blasted and then paint and what 7 to 10 days to use it will last about two years before you need to have it done again
     
  12. Uncle Harley

    Uncle Harley New Member

    hey guys the company I work for has a division that re-lines underground fuel tanks and various chemical tanks........I will ask my tank guy what he would recomend.
     
  13. coon hunter

    coon hunter Truman Waddell 270-589-7828 Brownsville Ky

    Get the epoxy paint that is used to coat re bar for bridges . And rust will be no more . but you will have to get it from CMA or windfasners.
     
  14. Steve Rotramel

    Steve Rotramel We got some radical rebels in this county!

    9800 series immersion epoxy from Grainger. The only thing better for sure is a vinyl esther coating which must be sprayed (main problem with the rhino lining as well), therefore inappropriate for these tanks. I've talked to a lot of chemical tank guys and this is their feedback.

    Best of luck!
     
  15. Todd B

    Todd B Active Member

    Mr. Rotramel,
    Could you possibly help me out? I am in need of the small plastic fan that goes on the smaller tanner motor. I have a broken blade on it. The problem is I called Dan Rinehart and they do not sell just the fan. I do not need the whole motor. I am trying to piece back together a tanner that was given to me. I would appreciate any guidance you can give me to where I can buy one.

    Thanks alot,
    Todd B
     
  16. Steve Rotramel

    Steve Rotramel We got some radical rebels in this county!

    Hey Todd,

    Wish I could help you. The motor will probably do fine on three blades indefinitely, or you might break off the blade opposite the one already broken to balance it. It will probably move enough air to keep the motor from overheating.

    Good luck with it!
     
  17. Jesse M

    Jesse M "it is what it is"

    I would just save yourselves a headache and invest in a Wegners tanner stainless from the frame up. Not to mention a motor that does not have to rely on a fan to keep it from over heating.
     
  18. Mr.T

    Mr.T Active Member

    I think repairing what we already own will be cheaper, even if we repair it three times.
     
  19. Uncle Harley

    Uncle Harley New Member

    ok, sorry for the dealay with my response, but I don't make it into the office very much.........my tank guy recomends a product called Enviroline 373F applied in one coat @ 15 to 17 mills DFT....... it is a molten sulpher lining used in chem tanks on rail cars....... He says it's kinda expensive, but can be found @

    Industrial Enviromental Coatings Corp.
    1831 Blount Rd.
    Pompano Beach FL 33069

    PH:800-449-6525


    This guy is a bit anal and normally does a little overkill when it comes to linings because " He hasn't had one fail yet" lol so I have requested more options, that won't be so costly..........I will keep you posted when I find out more....