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Using real Javelina teeth with mount (work's with boar as well)

Discussion in 'Tutorials' started by michael p., Oct 18, 2007.

  1. michael p.

    michael p. Getting better with age :)

    I got in a repair job a few weeks ago on a Javelina where the Taxidermist had used the real teeth & had only dry preserved the jaws. Well after a couple of years the grease of course started leaching making an unatractive insect infested mount. As we know alot of our customers want the real teeth but both Javelina's & boars are some greasy specimens. I figured I would show the easy way that I do mine when the customer want's the real teeth used in the mount. The exact same principle applies to the way I do my boars. only I set all my teeth before I "All game" the mouth on hog's though. The edges that look a little rough are, but will completely smooth out during finishing. Same apply's with the painting, I do not completely finish my painting till I start finish work, I always wind up painting them different shades every time anyway's ;) LOL

    Please excuse some of the blurry pic's. I have a cheap digital camera to use in my work area & I am living on coffee right now so I was jumpy :D I had 5 different project's going at the studio today so I did not get home untill after midnight so i'm typing with a caffeine buzz right now LOL :D

    I hope somebody can get something out of this, that would be great....if you don't then I welcome your comments and/or critisizm's. That's what we're all here for is to learn & help each other get better ;) To all the beginner's, please realize that my way is not the perfect way & there are better ways out there than mine. This is just what I have found works easily for me through trial & error on commercial Hog & Javelina mount's using the real teeth. It's quick & easy & does not cost hardly anything but a few buck's and very little time. One good thing, the material & time lapses between stages allow you to do this in conjunction with other projects you are working on through a normal shop day.

    Start by cutting the teeth out of the head.

    Then use a releasing agent and cover the entire top jaw. (I use regular hardwood floor wax) and get you some bondo to mix with.

    Cover entire inside uper jaw roof with bondo

    When bondo has hardened it will form a cast which you will pull off after it has cured for 15 minutes or so.


    After you have made your cast, simmer (DO NOT BOIL!) the upper & lower jaw in about 2 gallons of water & a 1/2 cup of baking soda and dawn soap for 15-20 minutes. After removal, wash in dawn & scrub with a steel brush.



    After washing, degrease the upper & lower jaw in a solution of your choice. (I use laquer thinner....if you do also, wear a respirator & protectant gloves!!!!! Laquer thinner can & will seep in to your blood stream through your finger nails and can cause major liver & kidney damage!!!! )

    Let dry & mix a ball consisting of equal part's "A" & "B" "All Game" and smooth into upper jaw set.


    Take your Bondo cast (wetten before hand to help in release) & push into upper jaw (it will be a perfect fit) squeeze until excess is running out the side. Trim off excess while cast is still in place & then remove the cast from the upper jaw.


    This is what the upper jaw detail will look like.

    After curing, base paint your jaw's (upper & lower) white. After it has dried use your base flesh color. You may at this time choose to finish painting the jaw's or install them to be finished during completion work. (which is what I do)



    Semi finished Real teeth & jaw's before installing

    Once later completely finished it will look like the real thing with no worrying about flesh shrinkage, bug's or grease at a later date.

    Installed in form


    I will post completed pic's of the mount in a couple of week's.

    BTW, before somebody ask's, all the black crud on the side of the form is not from a fire :D LOL It is from the way I finished the back of the pedestal with saw dust, glue & spray paint ;)
  2. That realy nice I'll have to try thawt some time

  3. RGP

    RGP Guest

    That is cool! Have you ever tried that on a bear or cougar? It seems like it should work.
  4. Michael, do Javelina have that fleshy core in their teeth like boars do? If so will that cause problems? How do you stop the molars and other teeth from drying and cracking down the track a bit??
    And very nice, thanks for sharing.

  5. I was wondering the same thing, Do you pll the tusks and clean them? I clean them out and fill with bondo/resin mix, it helps reduce the cracking , By the way nice demo! I think i will try this for My (masters) degree. ???
  6. Brian Claar

    Brian Claar New Member

    Good idea. This could be used for other animals as well.
    Now what do you use for the tongue. Do you buy one, make one or cast?
  7. michael p.

    michael p. Getting better with age :)

    Javelina do not have hollow teeth with marrow like a Boar so there is no need to pull them.
    I'm not really following you on the molars & other teeth drying & cracking. I have seen it happen on Boar tusk's, but the only time I have had a problem with the molars cracking is from excessive heat.

    Javelina do not have hollow teeth such as the boar. On the boar, I just pull them, clean them & fill with 2 part epoxy to keep the tusk's from cracking , reset & use the same procedure.

    I'm a MOHR man :)
  8. KILLER........

    MP your light years ahead of me............
  9. Thanks for posting these tips Mike they are very helpful.
  10. mk

    mk -30 below

    nice job mp, what do you do for a closed mouth javelina or boar with securing the tusks to the form?
  11. coueskiller

    coueskiller New Member

    Thanks for the step by step info. It should help me out alot.

  12. Caffeine buzz or has somebody been painting without a respirator ;D ;D

    Nice pictorial. I was wondering the same about the teeth cores but you answered it. Now go have a real cup of coffee and keep off the paint fumes ;D
  13. michael p. Good Description....I may be able to help you take it a little further,,,or atleast help you improve your method. Ok if you just sprits the upper pallet detail with water , thats enough of a release agent, that way you don't lose any detail with your release agent, Second after you get done simmering your jawset, take the upper and go ahead and Glue it into the form...the lower jaw of the form is of course removed at this time. mix Red flocking with your Allgame...This way there is NO painting required at all!!! lay your bed of Allgame down and use your Bondo press Mold just as you descrobed..again a sprits of water is all you need. Now Build the Gumline inbetween the Teeth and the Form...I even cover the back of the throat at this time...you can put some indentations that look like the back of the throat...basicly all Foam is covered with my AllGame and Red Flocling Mix, I Now take the lower jawset and Glue it into the lower jaw of the form...You go ahead and build your Gumline here as well between the Foam and the Teeth, I stop when I get to the back edge of the Tusk on both sides, I can reach this to finish after the Hog or Javelina is mounted. Now Glue your lower onto the Form, When you look into the mouth everything will be finished exept a small gap where the lower jaw of the form meets the upper So there will only be a very fine line right down the middle of the cheek on both sides, You can reach this after your mount is dry and you finish the mouth work from the Whets and Tusks forward. Here is a pic of a Hog....in this one I went ahead and built up the fleshy part of the Gum that lays right up against the whets in the upper....I have found it to work better if you leave this out untill you install the whets.....Thats one other thing I'm not sure if you do? But I would do all work described above with the Tusks and whets out...it just works better and you can tuck you skin, trim it and blend with AllGame better with them out.
  14. Also one other thing you will obvisouly need to trim the Tusks and Whets with a dremal if you leave them out like I do untill the last finishing, To keep them from cracking, Mix up some regular Fiberglass resin from you locar hardware store and fill them up, after that dry's if you need to stain them or whatever do it, then take a can of clear satin and spray a light coat on the outside, Note you only need to do this on the Tusks and Whets.
  15. michael p.

    michael p. Getting better with age :)

    I see some very good point's in yours Keith. Me personally though....I prefer to put the tusk's in before hand. It helps me considerably with allignment. Most jaw lines on forms are not even close to being symetrical & if I install the jaw with out Tusk's....once I put them in afterward's if something is not canted close I wind up ripping the jaw set out trying to get all my alterations correct.

    I'm gonna try that flocking mix next time....that sound's like a great idea.

    Also, i'm glad you mentioned the building of All Game before attaching the upper & lower parts of the form. I do the same as you, but I had a BIG bust out on the lower jaw portion of this form (stepped on it :-\) & had to attach & make repairs before I put in the jaw. But I highly reccomend as you said to do your All Game work in the back half that way.
  16. They make rooms for this.
  17. Hey D,

    Thought you were at a fair, someone said looking for that goat?
  18. Go post some more one legged deer pictures and leave the goats to me. ;D
  19. OK, .... Well, heck if they dont know what I mean look at the photo...LOL
  20. Michael,

    I have some boar jaws from a few years ago. Some of the molars have cracked in half. It may be the high heat and dry conditions we get here as you said.