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Discussion in 'Tutorials' started by Jim B, Dec 12, 2007.
Great job Jim! but you never surprise me with your ability.
that is amazing cant wait to see the finished product
WOWWW!!!! That is some incredible attention to detail! I can see how that might not be the most fun in the world, looks just a LITTLE time consuming..LOL Ther are some super talented taxi artists on this website. Keep it coming Jim!! Jared
Jim thank you very much for sharing. I have done a little of this, but not to the extent of your project. What a fantastic job. Thanks for the play by play and explanation. Frank
Just a word about "staining" and coloring antlers.I very seldom wipe a paint or stain on and then wipe it off the high spots.Sometimes this works very well.I view every rack as an individual and they are all different to some extent.Some racks,especially elk and mule deer have darker coloring on the high areas and the grooves and low spots are the light base color.Some racks have some of both.If I am repairing a rack,the rack itself is my reference and I paint my repair to match the rest of the existing rack-whatever that takes.This picture is of part of the unbroken side of this rack.Notice how the low areas are lighter colored.Even most of the bumps are dark.The only place the bumps are light tipped is on the front of the rack from brow tine to burr and a little of the burr is highlighted in front only.
As I said,I seldom use the wipe on-wipe off technique.I use artist's acrylic tube paints like Liquatex and apply them with a bristle artist brush,Scotch Brite pad,paper towel,rag,toothbrush,whatever it takes to match the existing rack.Sometimes the paint is thinned with water,sometimes from the tube,sometimes" dry-brushed.In this case I was just able to use an artist bristle brush and paint straight from the tube.The main color was raw umber and that's the most commonly used.I tinted over top a little with burnt umber in the darker areas.I highlighted a few bumps in the front of the rack by wiping over them with a small piece of 400 grit sandpaper.This is where the proper colored putty underneath,comes into play.Notice some of the lower areas between the bumps is a little lighter than the darkest coloration.This is the finished repair.
jim- do you put a clear sealer coat over the painted areas so the paint doesnt rub off? nice post.
Here is a closer picture of the repair.Remember,sometimes complicated putty jobs need to be done in 2 or 3 steps,letting one harden before starting the next layer of detail.This is kind of an advanced job but the techniques will be helpful on the simpler jobs too.It is just a matter of looking at you reference(the rack itself) and experiment to find the technique that produces the texture or color you are trying to replicate.I do some experimenting on almost every rack,to get things to match on that individual rack.I also think it is very important to build in as strong a structure as possible when attaching tines and rack pieces.Wires don't get it for me.I've had to fix too many of other taxidermists repairs because the didn't put strong enough rods in and epoxy them properly.Remember,customers and their family members will be manhandling these things.If you do your repairs well,someone,someday will be handling it and won't know that it was broken.As gruelling as it was to do this once,I'd sure hate to do the same one twice.Now go shoot up some racks and have fun!
I don't know about Jim, but I use Krylon #1311 with great results!!!
MK, I don't usually seal it.The paint is pretty durable,close to as durable as the natural staining on the rack and the putty underneath is the same color as the base color of the rack.If it gets dinged,it will look like any other part of the rack that gets dinged.I should say that when I repair antelope horns or sheep horns,I first color the putty to match the color of the horn.Same thing,if the horn gets scuffed,there's no blaring light spot,it just looks like any other part of the horn.Normal handling won't affect the paint at all.I definitely don't want to spray anything on that will give it the slightest sheen that the rack wouldn't normally have.Even some of the flat sprays sometimes impart a slight sheen.
Thanks Jim, excellent job!!
excellent job Jim. great post and tuturial. thank you for sharing with us.
Thank you Jim. Great tutorial.
AWESOME JOB JIM !!!!!!
Nice work Jim.
The pictures and information should help a lot of folks feel like tackling a project like this, please share with us your pricing on a project like this? Thanks.
Pricing on this, like every other project has got to be based on 1.The wage you want to make per hour 2.Percentage of profit you want,over your wage. 3.YOUR overhead cost per hour 4.Your material cost + profit X hours of labor in the project.You should never base your price on what someone else charges.It should be based solely on what your cost-overhead is and what you want to make and every project should be priced the same way.I here too often:" What should I charge for...?" No one can tell you what you should charge.That has to be figured out on an individual basis.You should have an hourly figure determined for your shop work." A more appropriate question would be: " What would be the average number of hours it would take to complete X project?" Multiply that times YOUR shop rate.I don't mean to give you the runaround but figure it like this,this project too about 2/3 the time it would take to mount a deer head,start to finish.Take a deer head price,deduct most of the material cost X 2/3.A lot of customers would never pay this much.I would let them keep a 2 piece rack to commemorate their bad shooting,and move on to the next project.You have to get paid for what you do.You can bet your customer insists on it where he works and probably gets his money quicker than we often do.
Oh my Gosh!!!!! Jim that is a wonderful job... This is the stuff I love and keeps me wanting to get better and better.