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tanning with krowtann - using fleshing machine & bench grinder

Discussion in 'Tanning' started by oldterryr, Dec 20, 2007.

  1. oldterryr

    oldterryr Terry's in Heaven with no worries at all.

    ;D ;D

    i have had so many people pm me about this exact questions that i am posting it for everyone (especially beginners ) - sorry if it bores you or goes against what you believe - ;D ;D ;D
    this example is for a shoulder mount deer but could just as easilly be a pine marten cause i do everything the same no matter what the animal - we are assuming i have already caped the skull and taken carcass measurements which are 7 x 20(right behind ears) but have done nothing else - no pre salting necessary

    here goes:
    1) turn ears - no attempt is made to get to the very edges - i probably turn to about 3/8" still on edge
    2) cut off chunks of meat on ear bases
    3) turn lips all the way - if there is a big chunk of meat you can get to cut it off
    4) split septum and take off big chunks of cartilage
    5) turn nostrils as far as possible - most of this i do later with bench grinder
    6) if there are obvious chunks of meat on face (especially corners of mouth) take them off
    7) i dont do anything to nose pad yet
    8) i dont turn eyelids until after tanning
    9) take off big chunks of meat from all over skin
    10) mix up krowtann per instructions - most deer capes take 1 1/2 to 2 gallons
    11) let set in kt mixture for 3-4 days - i tan mine in an unheated garage - you can leave in mixture forever - agitate every day so that there are no folds where tan does not reach - i just physically pick up skin and let it back down in - i do not hold it down with milk jugs - tan will leach in to areas at top of liquid
    12) tanning is complete now that 3-4 days has gone by
    13) rinse in clean water
    14) mix up 3-4 gallons of clean water and dump in 3-4 ounces of bakin soda all at once - this is not following kt instructions
    15) let set for 30 minutes
    16) take out of neutralizing solution and wash in soapy water with whatever detergent you have on hand - i use dawn or arm and hammer
    17) rerinse in clear water
    18) hang to drip dry of spin water out if you have a washing machine
    19) flesh hide with fleshing machine as far forward as possible - i can normally go to almost back of nose
    20) thin antler bases and y cut or you wont be able to push a needle thru them
    21) i pay special attention to thinning neck area cause this is where any problem getting the form to fit will be
    22) i have already ordered a form by this time and i order the exact carcass size cause i know i will be able to get that size back
    a) if form wont fit i will reshave neck area
    b) oil skin overnite
    c) i never had one this wouldn't cure and a,b,c happens about 1 out of 20 mounts so its no big deal
    23) i continue to use fleshing machine of face but have reset depth to very shallow and work very slow
    24) shave off big chunks around eyes with fleshing machine
    25) i am now going to bench grinder coarse wheel - i do not use wire wheel
    26) holding lips tightly between my fingers i 'shave' flesh off - more like it just rolls ahead of wheel
    27) i continue with wheel and do nostrils and nose pad proper
    28) at some point in time i use a scalpel to finish up nostrils - i trim nostrils where hair stops
    29) thin around eyes and tear duct with wheel - i put my hand behind so i can feel if i am applying too much pressure
    30) split eyelids and take out fatty deposits - this is a must and i have seen more than one taxidermist leave these in
    31) double check everything and make sure it is thin enough
    32) turn ears to the very edges - i use a sharp knife (not scalpel) and my fingers to do this - i check that they are turned to edges by turning them right side out and running a darning needle along inside edge - it is a quick check and will show you if there is more turning to be done
    33) rough up ear cartilage and clean with lacuqer thinner
    34) mix up angel hair bondo and fill ear - shape ear and make sure edges are thin - as bondo starts to kick gently tap edges with hammer to thin them even further
    35) sew up any holes you made or bullets
    36) mount deer in your chosen fashion

    hope this helps - if i have left out a step I AM SURE SOMEONE WILL TELL ME
     
  2. BMan40

    BMan40 New Member

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    0
    Thanks for taking the time to write that up.
    Are you saying you use the grinding wheel (rock) instead of the wirewheel for fleshing?
    I dont have a flesher and was going to use the grinder but I had understood others to use the wire side to thin the cape......

    Brian
     

  3. oldterryr

    oldterryr Terry's in Heaven with no worries at all.

    i hardly ever use the wirewheel - if you are using the wirewheel you must wear eye protection EVERY TIME - the coars wheel takes a while to get used to and i still burn holes occassionally - just takes some time to learn like anything else - fleshing wheel learning curve is long if you havent got someone standing beside you to show how its done - always wear hand protection when using fleshing machine
     
  4. oldterryr

    oldterryr Terry's in Heaven with no worries at all.

    i dont have time to baby-sit the neutralizing step like instructions say and i got where i just eyeball the amount of baking soda - i finally just started measuring via the swag (sized by wild a$$ guess) method and it has worked for about 3-4 years - dont think i'll change - for those wondering how long you can leave skins in kt - i just mounted a fox that that has been in kt for 3 years - kinda dried out and salt covered but neutralized and it is good as new
     
  5. snd

    snd Member

    326
    0
    In your instructions you don't salt, is salting necessary.I don't and wondering if I'm doing something wrong by not? I also shave the hide before I preseve, I use dry preservative before mount.
     
  6. oldterryr

    oldterryr Terry's in Heaven with no worries at all.

    title of thread is tanning with krowtann - no salting necessary
     
  7. snd

    snd Member

    326
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    Sorry,great post, I'm going to give it a try. Just learning though,hope to get good results.Thanks
     
  8. Tenbears

    Tenbears Member

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    U DA MAN Terry?
     
  9. I have both deer in Kro right know, Two days left to tan. My ? will it rehydrate little patches that seem real hard. Like edges and patches on the forhead.
     
  10. oldterryr

    oldterryr Terry's in Heaven with no worries at all.

    probably - else thin it with grinder on wheel b4 mounting
     
  11. oldshaver

    oldshaver Guest

    Terry, I cant help but like ya, but, do you realise, your procedure, took at least 31 steps, until the ready to mount stage? You don't know it, but you have now become the spokes person for sending your skins out, to be tanned.

    1. cape it, and freeze it. Let a fleshing service do all the splitting etc.
    2. the flesher's, give the skin to the tannery, and it goes through the tanning process.
    3.You get the skin back, and mount it!

    You have actually lost money, if your time is worth anything at all. Your giving your time away, to save $15.00 to $20.00 dollars?

    Your logic is flawed, and is not saving you any money, by tanning at home. The only thing gained here, is a quick turnaround time, for your mounts. The largest Taxidermist outfits in the US, realised this a long time ago. Their time is worth more, than trying to save a few bucks, by tanning skins in shop.

    I appreciate your loyalty, to your methods, but they just don't add up.
     
  12. oldterryr

    oldterryr Terry's in Heaven with no worries at all.

    i noticed that after i posted it but "pigs will fly gracefully" b4 i trust anyone (actually i know one but his turnaround is horrid) to do what i know i can control - if you allow any tannery to control your destiny you will get what you deserve -thats my story and i'm sticking to it - i would like to believe there is a good tannery out there like you are talking about - funny thing is i HAVE NEVER SEEN it mentioned in the tanning section - maybe one does exist...........but it is probably in OZ

    this post was never meant as an argument starter or ender - i just got tired of typing the same thing out over and over and this post is linked from my website so i dont have to do it again - you and i will never agree on this but i do respect your opinion on it
     
  13. oldshaver

    oldshaver Guest

    I still want to shake your hand Terry! I believe, you are a man of your convictions, weather they are wrong or right! Every member of most tannerys, can do anything you can do, but better, since they specialize in their areas. Turn around time is greatest, with the best product.
     
  14. oldterryr

    oldterryr Terry's in Heaven with no worries at all.

    oldshaver its a good thing i didnt put up lutanf instructions - i might have used up all the bandwidth the site has
     
  15. Xiahou

    Xiahou Rocky 6/1/05 - 6/5/08

    used some of your tips. Lots of help. Thank you.
     
  16. youngbuck66

    youngbuck66 a fine maumee river walleye

    terry, thanks for the post, its very helpful. Im a DP user and i think my next mount im going to try Krowtann. My question is, whats the difference between Krowtann 2000 and the Special whitetail Formula. Obviously, the whitetail formula is for whitetails, but can it be used for other things? Why is there a special whitetail formula?
     
  17. Yotetalker

    Yotetalker New Member

    Thanks Terry... I'm new to this and appreciate all the help you give....Thanks again.
     
  18. Roger E

    Roger E Member

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    MT
    Terry,
    In the past 30 years or so, I have done home tanning with just about every formula I have heard of. My only 2 attempts at tanning with Krowtann ended with slippage. I am very fortunate to live in MT, and be within a couple hundred miles of two very competent tanneries. I still use both of them, and still tan in-shop.
     
  19. Xiahou

    Xiahou Rocky 6/1/05 - 6/5/08

    ok. I didn't order a form before it took the plunge thinking from what ive read its better to order after you tan than measure still on the body. So can I measure it un-neutralized put it back in to wait for the order a few days then continue once it arrives or does the size change much with neutralizing, washing, drying in prep for mounting?
     
  20. oldterryr

    oldterryr Terry's in Heaven with no worries at all.

    safer to order after tanning but i have not found it necessary to wait