1. Welcome to Taxidermy.net, Guest!
    We have put together a brief tutorial to help you with the site, click here to access it.

Newbie Questions Need Deer Help

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by BMan40, Dec 23, 2007.

  1. BMan40

    BMan40 New Member

    Getting ready to mount a gifted Whitetail. It will be the first attempt for me and I think I understand most of the basic concepts. I do have a couple of things which are unclear to me . I HAVE used the search feature but still have not found the answer.

    First, removing ear cartilage for liners.
    I turned the ears no problem and removed the fleshy base. I was considering using bondo but George through his many posts, (not directly) convinced me to just buy some liners.
    I am unsure of what needs to be cut away and what, if anything doesnt. Does someone have a pic of an ear ready for a liner with the cartlidge removed? Or can you explain the removal process. None of my videos use liners.
    The back of the ear after turning is all flesh but the front is still attached to the cartlidge? Do you "turn" that side too?

    Using Krowtann
    once you have neutralized and rinsed in fresh water the instruction say you are ready to mount. I am assuming you have to dry the cape some first?
    Without a tumbler, what is a method that would get the cape from dripping wet to ready for paste?

    Thanks Guys Awesome site. I will take my lumps when done and post a pic.
  2. visions of wildlife taxid

    visions of wildlife taxid love me or leave me, just dont try to convert me

    peeling cartilage from the ears will be tricky for you for the first few times, go slow and easy, i score it across the ear in both directions and gently peel 4 smaller peices off when i use liners, others will give other methods i am sure, as for the krowtann, you dont need a tumbler, let it drip dry for an hour or so, them roll it up bag it and sweat it overnight in the refridgerator, hope this helps, Russ

  3. pyeager1

    pyeager1 Active Member

    Let George explain the ear cartilage removal then? If it were my first deer and I had the choice, Bondo would definitely be the way I would go. If you want to "trash" your ears by trying to remove the cartilage on your first attempt, well that is your choice also. Remember, George is from the "old school" and since he didn't invent the Bondo method he is surely against it. ;D
  4. visions of wildlife taxid

    visions of wildlife taxid love me or leave me, just dont try to convert me

    yeager LMAO, i didnt mention in my post there Bman40 that i havent had to remove said cartilage in my shop in well over a year, i switched to bondo to see what all the hubub was about, and i never went back to liners, ;) Russ
  5. BMan40

    BMan40 New Member

    Thanks for the info
    I am not against either just want a good looking ear.
    If one is easier (which I thought liners would be) I would go that way.
    Sounds like peeling the cartilage is a pain and risky. I dont want to blow out the ears peeling the cartilage off.
    I was pretty happy to turn the ears with no major damage.

    I will see.
    someone is going to send me some pics later... I will make up my mind after seeing that.

    Thanks for the tips....

    so are you saying the kroetann cape can still be moist/damp when you start the process of mounting?

  6. visions of wildlife taxid

    visions of wildlife taxid love me or leave me, just dont try to convert me

    all capes need to be moist or wet when mounting unless your using dry preservative, any tanned cape will be wet when it goes on, thats what makes it stretch and workable on the form, once its sewed up, it can be allowed to dry and that is fine. Russ
  7. Mr.T

    Mr.T Active Member

    Ears without cartilage, I remove it all. For your first, you can cut the cannel off, you don't really need it anyway but for competitions. Leave enough cannel to keep the glue from migrating out to the skin area.

  8. BMan40

    BMan40 New Member

    Thanks MR T I saw that picture on the topic of sewing ears and wondered if it still had the cartlisge attached or not?
    Is the skin about the same on both sides or is it thinner in the front?

  9. visions of wildlife taxid

    visions of wildlife taxid love me or leave me, just dont try to convert me

    its thinner bman40, and will tear very easily, if you get to a point where you feel it start to tear, go away from that area and peel back towards it from the other direction, i found this helps keep tearing to a minimum in most situations, but there are ears that are going to give you problems no matter what, like ears that have heavy tick infestation on the back side seem to be problems for me no matter what. Russ
  10. Mr.T

    Mr.T Active Member

    Yep, Russ thats right, when you see a tear about to open up, come around from the other direction when peeling it apart, go slow, and if you get a rip, it will fix up with a dryer sheet and super glue. Any damage that you do, is fixable. Going slow so you don't have to repair is the tricket. But it's not the end of life if you wreck it. Autobody shops just don't fix paint scratches, they fix wrecks, Taxidermy is no different.
  11. visions of wildlife taxid

    visions of wildlife taxid love me or leave me, just dont try to convert me

    i agree with that 100 percent, well gotta go skin a couple , they didnt thaw quik enough yesterday so i am forced to work today, i wasnt gonna do anything else till wed. or so, but since theses didnt get done yesterday i have to go do them, later, Russ
  12. livbucks

    livbucks Well-Known Member

    There will always be a first time. It is no certainty that you would wreck the ear, just a mid level probability. How important is this mount? If it is your own kill, you have nobody to answer to but yourself. If it is another's, I'd think about it. Your best friend during the process will be your thumb and close behind the scalpel. You have to make a very careful cut across the width of the cartiliage because you must start from a thicker area and work toward the thin edges. I would seriously order the McKenzie video called Skinning fleshing and tanning with Mike Gillis. The very first ear I did I did not tear a single hole. When it begins to stick, work at it from a new direction like others said or "ease" that spot with a very light touch of a new scalpel blade. If you see hairs or fibers as you are peeling, you are actually beginning to pull a layer of skin and are headed for disaster. Get the scalpel and ease it along very gingerly until you can begin to peel once more.
    Hope this helps.
  13. bill@hogheaven

    [email protected] New Member

    Choosing methods cuz they are easier is the first step away from quality work.
  14. oldterryr

    oldterryr Terry's in Heaven with no worries at all.

    choosing methods that you are comfortable with and produce quality results are the 2nd step towards quality work - use bondo for your first ears - just go slow and get the edges thin and they will look (AND BE) fine
  15. Utility

    Utility New Member

    livbucks has it dead on. It's a piece of cake and every ear is different. Pay attention
  16. livbucks

    livbucks Well-Known Member

    I must say I have seen some amazing ears done with Bondo, though.
    You can replicate the ear in any anatomical position and get the shaping correct.
    A deer's ears cup in different ways depending on position.
    An earliner is set in shape so you get whatever it came with.
    Either way has it's benefits and pitfalls.
  17. Lawdog

    Lawdog New Member

    I saw a post where Geo said something about the bondo breaking down. Is there something too that or not? Seems to hold up on most cars and they get the #&*( beat out of them.
  18. Apruitt

    Apruitt New Member

    I prefer bondo, but each to thier own. The problem is no two peoples ears are the same, and they dont come in small,medium,& large. Same with deer,your going to have splits and differant problems that arise. If u take your time with bondo use approx. 50/50 bondo to resin, maybe 60/4o for faster drying and enough hardner to change color to slight red hughe, then mix chopped fiber. Dont get in a hurry, do one at a time. You can end up with a very nice ear I use earliners for ref. only. Have good ref. photos, it will help alot, and get em thin. Good luck
  19. Tenbears

    Tenbears Member

    The difference between bondo On cars, and in ears is that on a car the bondo which is porous is sealed with primer, and paint. air can pass through leather to degrade the bondo. secondly. take a wet fender and try to put bondo on it see what you think about the adhesion. Then try to get bondo as thin on the edges as a real deer ear. and see how well it holds up. Even if you do add chopped matting in it. I have used both bondo, and ear liners as well as ear magic. for commercial mounts what ever you can do best would be my recommendation.