Hide Paste

buckeye supream forever.

 

I like the McKenzies Paste, it gives more working time than Buckeye.

 

How much working time (on average) are you getting Greg? Was thinking about trying the McKenzie brand.

 

Buckeye Supreme is the way to go. Won't sag on you like epo-grip, no matter how thick or thin you apply.

 

We use the WASCO hide paste. Works well doesnt dry out in bucket and we get good working time.
Kim

 

Buckeye Supreme gets my vote.

 

The powdered Paste you buy from Mckenzie. Its a dextrin based glue.
If your cape fits the form right...you will have no drumming.

I think the new catalog has it listed for $25 for 25 pounds. I get a deer per pound. So you can do the math.

Ive used Buckeye Supreme too. And it worked great. But not any better than the Dextrin. I could get 10 or 11 deer out of a gallon of that stuff. Havent priced it in a while but it seems like its about $35 a gallon.

So I can pay approx. $1 per deer or $3.50 per deer. If the results are the same........Ill stick to the Dextrin

 

I'm another BUCKEYESUPREME diehard fan.

 

Buckeye supreme just started using it and will probably never change now. I have found that I no longer have to pin. IT'S AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

well epo epoxy is all i use
ive never had a problem with it getting hard
i keep the lids clean
and i store in plastic bags with the lids secure
ive used all the waterbase stuff
imo epo epoxy is the step forward not the step backwards
i mix it in steps and never look back
have a blessed day

 

DEXTRIN? Lord help us. There's still someone out there using flour and water. I'm glad to hear that it's cheap, but it's cheap in more ways than costs.

For those of you who don't know or haven't heard this diatribe before, dextrin was all there was once. It is made from wheat flour usually and mixed with warm water to form a paste. You could make it thick enough and go ahead and make bread out of it if you'd wanted. With the old paper forms, it worked sufficiently as the water soaked into the paper and allowed the glue to form some type of colloidal bond. You got plenty of work time as the moisture was trapped between the hide and the form and only the wicking of the moisture through the form into the hollow center allowed it to dry out. Since the hide dried from the outside in, this allowed what measly bond there was to hold the hide in place. Still carding, pinning, and nailing were not only common, they were mandatory. With the advent of fiberglass forms, it was quickly learned that dextrin wasn't going to cut it. Foam forms are much the same. If you open any old form where dextrin was used, you're likely going to find the green mildew that formed between the skin and form as the wheat flour makes a great Petri dish for finding cures to diseases. I wouldn't use that crap again if they gave it away.

Epo-Grip Epoxy is the only glue capable of holding dry preserved hides to forms. If you're using tanned hides and you don't use enough epoxy to eliminate the problems Grueby describes, either order smaller quantities or try their water based adhesive that goes on MUCH thinner than the other water based pastes and gives you a great lead time on drying.

 

And what happens if you don't use hide paste? I've never used hide paste and haven't had any trouble so far.

 

Jumbo, you've had problems, you just failed to recognize them. Hide paste allows you to form detail that is impossible otherwise, The hide "drums" across any crack or crevice in a form if not held down by a good hide paste.

 

I beg to differ George. I used dp and then stapled/pinned the hide down in all of the little crevices until it was dry. And they held. I got a 91 at state competition with the only one I've entered in a competition. Oh Yeah!

 

ive been using derma grip with good results. anyone ever had any problems with it?

 

I wouldn't waste my money on Buckeye. Dextrine does work well but you have to have the right mixture. If you use dextrine though you NEED to put a disinfectant in it because it will grow fungus and bacteria. I don't dry preserve and don't recommend it so I don't know how well anything works on dp skins. If you use a good glue mixture and thin your cape down really well, you shouldn't have to pin or staple anywhere. I haven't pinned for years. I still don't understand why people are still pinning the front of their eyes and the nose and around the lower lip. It just creates holes and more finish work.

 

Thats some interesting knowledge you had to share George. I knew when I made my post about Dextrin that you would jump right in and bash it. I have noticed over the years that any product that you dont use......is crap.

By the way. Im not the only one who uses Dextrin hide paste. I have a friend in our association who has done very very well in state, national and world competitions. Wanna guess what type of paste he uses? His name is Jody Green. Look him up.

And I hope you dont tell my capes that pinning and carding is "mandatory". They must not know it since they dont drum. The only pins they see are a few down each side of the seam, because old habits die hard.

So shove off George. Just because you have done it a long time, doesnt mean its the only way......and definately doesnt mean you do it right.

 

I figured I would get more of a stir up about not using hide paste than what I did. So, I'm bringing it up again because I do want to know if it will cause any negative effects down the road. Does anybody else not use hide paste?

 

How do you slide the cape around on the roughed up form without paste of some sort? Oh, you don't rough up the form, you leave that waxy skin on it. Can you spell "drum?"

Buckeye Supreme here, but I never tried Epo-grip and don't really care to.