I remember a while back there was some discussion on reattaching cut in half Elk forms. I figured I would post how I do it, not saying it is the wrong way or the right way, but it works fine for me & takes all of 15 minutes. I know it's a lot of pictures, but just wanted to make sure I covered all bases. As I said, this may not be somebodys right way, but I have NEVER had a problem doing it this way & it is pretty much stupid proof I start by taking my form & placing heavy paint dots all around I then align & set the top onto the bottom & pull off which gives me a template for paddling out all my holes. I then take a paddle bit & drill holes in each of the dot's I have made & then take an air compressor & clean out the residue thoroughly I then take TWO 1/2" X 36" THREADED rod, sharpen one end on the grinder (notice bottom point) and check for depth & alignmenth on the side of the form. This gives me the idea of which angle to run it. I then use the paddle bit to drill two counter sink holes in the back part of the skull plate Then load the first THREADED rod into one of the drills (I know, I look like a dork sooooo be nice no need to remind me ) I then mix up about 3/4 can of BONDO & spread it on both sides of the forn & getting it fully into as many of the holes as possible, after spreading the BONDO, I allign the form & stick together. At this time I also put 4-6 temporary screws in to hold it together At this time, I take the two 1/2" X 36" THREADED rods & proceed to drill them in starting at the head where I had also drilled the two counter sink holes. I run them in as deep as possible & if you had only stuck approximately 3/4" of the rod into your drill, it will counter sink the rod along with the head of the drill into the two previous holes you had drilled. The reason for the THREADED rods & sharpening of one end is that they will self tap through the foam creating a VERY strong hold. Both of your rods will become automatically counter sunk with out hammering or tapping in if you follow this procedure. This will allow not only non-interference with your Antler skull plate setting. Onceyou have completed this procedure, allow the form to cure for an hour or two & then mount your form to the stand. I always like an engine stand cause tyou can roll it out of the way but yet still rotate the form side to side if you must. Be sure & attach one lag bolt firmly & then make sure both you stand & form at the eyes are level. Then go ahead & attach the rest of your lag bolts I have read on here before how some have suggested carving out & running 2x4's among other things into an Elks neck for support. To me that is crazy. I have also read that Bondo is useless in the process....well to each there own. Like I said I am not here to say whether I am right or wrong but I have NEVER had ANY problems reattaching a cut Elk form this way.....NEVER. Not the day it left the shop or years later down the road & I have mounted some damn big elk. Now before anybody starts calling me a gasoline ass or anything else by saying this method is not structurally sound to stand up to the stress of a large elk horns weight, I have not only mounted the Elk horns on the form, but also strapped a 90% full 5 gallon bucket of hide paste onto the head as well adding easily 60+ more pounds of weight. Like I said earlier, this may not be the best way out there, but it works really great for me & is completely done in less than 15 minutes.