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Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial

Discussion in 'Tutorials' started by michael p., Jan 23, 2008.

  1. shaneb

    shaneb New Member

    "Michael, Post a pic of you and the Lil' Mexican sitting on the elk form and I'll be sold. LOL"

    Michael its too bad you dont have any of those bull nutt sacks left for Miranda to wear ontop that form. Then I would be sold too. ;D ;D ;D
     
  2. mimes

    mimes New Member

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    I kinda want to see Cutie Pie too......not you mike.....riding the mannikin....it would be pretty cool and show your method off.
     

  3. michael p.

    michael p. Getting better with age :)

    I semi agree with you Mooser.....overkil ::) yeah a litte...maybe ??? ....but the security out weighs that for 5 extra minutes of time. I guess my fear is somebody hanging the elk on a 12-16 foot vaulted ceiling and if it fell due to their negligence it splitting the seam with out the extra support.

    The way I feel is this, 5 minutes of extra time=$10, 2 rods=$5, the insurance & security of knowing it will never split under ANY circumstances-PRICELESS

    That could very well be arranged also :) :)

    I know the lil'mexican reads this from work, so bay if you are get ready to model tonight......the Taxidermy community is counting on you!!! LMAO


    BTW, anybody got any other ideas for the lil'mexican ??? (ooooh this coud get good!! ;D )
     
  4. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    For all of you Bondo fans, you know that epoxy would work WITHOUT all the drilling. The reason you have to drill is to provide a "tooth" for the Bondo. If you use a wisk broom and brush all the dust off both pieces, trowel a thin layer of epoxy on both sides of the form, place it together and index it with long screws, it will be much stronger than it was before it was ever cut. No holes, no Bondo, no 2x4's, no threadstock. The only time I use threadstock is when I order a lifesize form without rods so that I can alter it and then I imbed the threadstock OR I'm mounting the bighorned sheep of the world and I want to fortify that skinny neck. Works great for that.
     
  5. cht

    cht New Member

    Like a mule kick in the Head George makes a very good point!!
    Geeeze George your going to make me start hating the bondo fumes to HA HA
     
  6. Thank you MP for taking the time to share. I use Bondo and the hole method, but I do not match up the holes. Frank
     
  7. michael p.

    michael p. Getting better with age :)

    My dad has/had told me that for years George but i'm very inpatient & bull headed ;)
     
  8. coal39

    coal39 Member

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    Michael it's great that you take the time to show by pictures how you do things. It's a big help for beginners and sometimes old farts to see how you do it. I also do it like that but without the rods. Keep up the good work
     
  9. jorgy

    jorgy Member

    I just use the claws on a hammer and knock the heck out of each side to make some holes for the bondo to bite in. I have used the rods and the 2x4 and foam method, but have always used bondo to hold the two halves together prior to doing either the foam or the rods.

    I think the difference is the foam is now nearly $100 for the kit and the bondo is about $12 a gallon.
     
  10. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Now Bullwhacker, it's been an intelligent conversation so far, so lets keep it that way. Foam runs about $33 for a 2-quart kit while Bondo is $18 for a gallon. With Bondo, a gallon is a gallon, but with foam 2 quarts end up being about a 3 foot cube of solid foam. With a 2 quart kit (half a gallon), you have 64 raw fluid ounces. With about 4 ounces of foam, you can fix the elk, but it's going to take you a good quart of the Bondo to do the same repair. By using your cost analogy, you'll have to use $4.50 worth of Bondo (OR MORE). With the foam, you'll use less than $1.50. Additionally, you'll have "welded" the form together with the same material it's made of while creating a stronger brace inside with the 2x4 (and if you had to buy that, an 8 footer runs about $3 now, so with it cut in 4 pieces, that comes out to 75 cents for the lumber. Total cost with foam= $2.25 or about half what you spent on Bondo).

    Personally, I don't know how any taxidermy shop can exist without having foam on hand as well as Bondo. I use both often, but I'm still "old school" in putting forms back together. I know Bondo CAN work. I just know that foam DOES WORK BETTER.
     
  11. pyeager1

    pyeager1 Active Member

    George are you admitting you have a can of Bondo in your shop? ;D
     
  12. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    No Perry, I don't have a "can of Bondo" in my shop. I ALWAYS have a CASE of Whitefill Body Filler under the counter. That's 4 gallons and I use it extensively on making molds, making rocks, and setting antlers on manikins. I can't imagine not having it around along with a few pounds of cabosil.
     
  13. Now michael did you fix your hair up all purdy like just for us lol
     
  14. jorgy

    jorgy Member

    I agree both methods work and have done it both ways, but I can do it faster with bondo and a rod. I rough up both sides with the claws on a hammer, and I mean gouge it up good. Then I thin bondo with resin, cover both halves, and screw them together. Once that goes off I screw a rod or two through the form.

    I haven't set my wife on the head of one yet, but we'll see how this turns out later.
     
  15. Schmitty

    Schmitty New Member

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    MN
    Nice tutorial, sounds like a great method, I used George's method and that worked great too. I am hoping to post a pic of my finshed elk in a couple days
     
  16. rocky don

    rocky don the best collie that walks the earth!!

    well at least we know you actually do something in your shop!!!! oh and i love the stoney shirt!!!!!
     
  17. jcrosstaxidermy

    jcrosstaxidermy New Member

    I have also mounted some big elk, always just bondoed two halves back together, never had a problem, suppliers dont suggest using rod, just bondo ----if it works, it works sems a little much to me--sorry.
     
  18. idbatman

    idbatman Active Member

    I had to try it this morning. I ran the rods through while the bondo was still not set . I really liked the way the rods pulled the two pieces together . It was a lot tighter than the 5" screws could ever get it. Great info. Thanks
     
  19. deerstuffer

    deerstuffer New Member

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    Am I mistaken or does the McKenzie catalog just show them putting a thin layer of bondo on both sides and then screw it together? No drilling, hammers, or rods. It's been a while since I looked at that but that is what I remember anyway.
     
  20. Red stag

    Red stag Active Member

    880
    110
    Norway
    Allways used the foam method. Works great. Here in Norway bondo are too expencive, about 20 dollar for 1 kg. Thanks.